27.6.10

The Ankle's new hue / Kaleo-isms

I just cant imagine luck going any worse.





Scratch that - there is always tomorrow.

Ack.

Edit to add - Kaleo-isms:

"I've been working on this car all day! I fix it, and the same thing keeps breaking over and over!!"

(said while wearing latex gloves, pretending with tools and going under the 'hood' of his eletric jeep that he and Kekoa terrorize the neighborhood in)

(all said in very demonstrative, very loud, speaking to himself way)

(the same way his PAPA does when he rants anout picking up dog crap, toys, cig butts, leaves, etc, etc......)

Scary, isnt it?

24.6.10

How Karma laughs




88 hour work week; and I flirted with taking a day off from the hotel to go with the family to the beach. Havent had a whole lot of time to surf of late (no shit sherlock!) So this was a nice respit, and a nice swell was running. Get to the beach and find my good bro Kohnster parking. Head out for a surfy with him, none to great, just too much wind and not enough open spaces (crowds)



Oh there were some good ones after a while, tho'.



I headed in from that little surf session w/ Kohn; and paddle boarded the kids around and spied a real nice left wave that kept going off....(see pic) So off I went.

The spot has a whole bunch of boulders outcropping to get into the water at. I knew this. I have done this rock dance a million times before. Of course, this time Karma said - "The fuck you are"...As I was going to jump in, a set of waves approached, and as luck has it (or not) I misjumped, wind caught my board, and I went ass over shoulders down in a heap.

i caught the back of my head (no blood, all good) Shoulder blade...Vana (urchin) spine in my toes, and one heck of a hole on the right side of my right knee, and down to the shin bone on the let side of my right knee.









Karma still wasnt through with me as yet.

Now that my entire surfing PRIDE was in a bag floating on the bottom of the ocean, I had to catch a few waves, fuck being sore, bleeding, or semi-concious (not; but it makes good reading, eh?) I quickly asses the damage, (eh, fuck it) and paddle into the not crowded line up.

Right off the bat a beautiful wave comes right for me, damn Karma! Thanks! All is forgiven!

It lines up, I drop in, just nothing but green blue wall for a great stretch.

Oh man, beautiful.

The wave starts to close out, so I kick out (launching the board over the back of the wave) and I follow it.

Unfortunately for my OKOLE (as Zilla knows; my ASS) the board AGAIN catches the breeze, floats below me in the air, I above it, and I land square on one of the skegs(fins under the board) I break it off completely, and have a black and blue ass to prove it.

I caught a few more till I really knew I better go in, and now I am limpimg around at the pink and FIRE with a crack in my upper shin bone, a 1/2 inch deep hole opposite of it and a black-n-blue ass.

Thanks Karma!

14.6.10