Good Surf In Paradise

Real good surf this morning. Had CW's pretty much to myself and 5 others. Lotsa waves and good surfing by yours truly. One eat it, and paid the price with a stiff neck and bruised thigh from landing on the board. Oh well. Price you pay for playing. Waves running about 3-4 ft hawaiian style. 6-8 FFV (full face value) Absolutely beautiful conditions. Dawn was spectacular, and the sun rose just over the hill that is Koko Head. Crytsal clear blue water. A large Hawaiian monk seal came to play in the break too. Couple green turtles, lotsa birds, and fish. No "men in the grey suits"- (sharks)... Coffee at 530, and water by 615. stayed out 31/2 hours. Sore arms, back, and shoulders. It is supposed to get bigger and better by this coming week, so hope to get alot of surf time in before going back to the firehouse on Tuesday. One drowining over the past days at Diamond Head. 42 y/o , no details from the crew on what happened. Surf isnt macking, so who knows what happened? Now that surfing is going off the richter with the clueless, moronic, wanna-be's, only more tradgedy awaits those who cannot handle.

Bottom line in surfing is, if you cant handle the worst possible thing that can happen to you out there, you better not be out there. Cause you only endanger yourself, and others. Too many out now rely on the leash, and have no water ability to survive if the shit hits the fan. Sad, yeah, but stupid, also.

In other news, bought a new fridge for the remodel of up stairs, to be delivered Wed. Now back to work at the hell hole called the Hotel.

Peace and good surfing to all.


Fucking Hotel Job Bullshit

Hate working at the Hotel. Rich fuckers with nothing better to do than bitch. Wish i could have to help them via the Fire Dept. Then we would see the fuckers whine for real.

Sorry, cant stand asshole tourists. Come to my home and act like assholes. Act like $ buys the right to shit all over people. At least once in awhile they run into the real Hawaii. Fuckers that dont kiss their ass. Everythings expensive, and so what? I have to live here you doofus's.

Ah surf tomorrow will make it all better.

Finished bitching.

Better Surf Today / More Tomorrow

Today had some choice waves out at CW's. Not too much crowd 4 Max. Good buncha waves 4 ft hawaiian scale, clean oil glass conditions. Gonna head out tomorrow AM and hope for a longer session with no home fire problems. Maile (daughter) was sick so had to take her to Doctor Fujimoto. No strep, but cold and bug in her. Kaimi (oldest son) back and into the monkeys ass. Details aside he needs his shit to come together.

Tomorrows surforecast is for bigger, just as clean conditions for the AM. Should be good if can get on it early enuf. Avoiding the crowd, should be doable. Lotsa carving going on today on the 9'0" Makani LB. Great board. Mebbe take the 9'2" diamond tail out tomorrow. See what happens. Noone to surf with tho' as weekend warriors are stuck with thier young families. Glad mine are all old. C (wife) is working so I am freebird for AM go out. Buds site (808surfer.com) Has some great pix from country today. Bunch more at hawaiianwatershots by JB. some sick waves if you know where to look all around the island tomorrow.

Peace and good surfing, blessed waves to all.


Small kine surf

Small kine surf at FP the usual, wind blown side shore crappola. Better than doing anything else. Still working on the house, never had to work at the Hotel Job today. Fucking retarded tourists! On duty today at the fire house, and driving the big yellow truck for a while, Maile is sick, C picking her up at School. Work at Hotel Friday, fucking tourist crap.

Cant stand IDIOT tourists. Will expand more on retards and the shit they demand later, and tell tales of the crap that goes in your complaing, whiny, assholes; -food when you piss me off enuf to fuck with you.

1 alarm so far and day is 3 hours old - 21 to go. Auwe!


General Shit

Working today at the firehouse, no surfing for me today. Had to cook for the station today and did the usual go nuts with food to keep myself occupied again. Effortless, and effort expended. Go figure. I guess it was worth it, but results fail to compare with what I expected. Oh well. Check out the website : shes a flight risk, for some innaressing shit. Or my favorite 808surfer. Peace to all and take care of Mother Ocean!

Opening Post

It is a brand new day to begin a adventure that is for sure. I guess we will see what becomes of this foray into cyber land, as well as what adventures and mischief I can bring along with me.