26.4.08

Volcanic Haze/Dawn Patrol/Red skies at morning.

I am so blessed. I really am.



Whats Below.
Surf Above
Mr. KJ
Run!
Dawn, red as blood.
Dawn boogie boarder cut back
The first light of red this AM.
A view I like.




Went for a dawn surf, at 5AM after getting done at The Pink at 1130. Couldnt sleep. So tossed until 5, and got coffee, and hit the beach.


I lucked out, and then went back and picked up KJ for a swim at the same spot.

Aloha.

23.4.08

When there is no surf and I have too much free time...

I end up making reservations for Vegas. Right after good ol' Hotel De Hell closes.

See ya there June 3rd to the 8th.

Why do I do these things?

Damn it.

19.4.08

Sometimes you gotta get wetter than wet

Went out at dawn; after some coffee and a kiss on the maltese cross. Not as good/big/consistent as yesterday, but a wave fest for me. Been only surfing for and hour to and hour-half at most, and today stayed out 3 hours. Not the brightest idea, as (duh) the ribs arent fully healed and they reminded me. Its all good, just a small reminder I guess.


This is where you scramble back up when done surfing. Its a bitch when the sets come and push your tired ass against the ledge.
Under these 2 trees is a nice spot to watch the surf.
From the channel/shoulder.
The city's warning to would be doofus'. Doesnt work, BTW.
Dawn and ghost board.
A peeler on the inside after the crowd showed up.
Morning has broken.





Aloha.

10.4.08

The Banayan on Kalakaua Avenue

I guess I should explain. The guy in the story turns 75 soon.

The Banyan Tree

Honolulu, Hawaii. About 1955.

My Dad had just finished getting his degree at Stanford, when they were still the Indians, and people were less uptight and PC about things. My Mom was a stewardess when they still called them that, and people took 10 + hours to get to Hawaii via the airlines. She flew for United, dated a memeber of the Smuckers family, and was heading back to home base in Chicago.

Dad had signed up for the Army and was getting sent to Korea. Mom was killing time in Waikiki waiting to fly out the next day, or day after.

Dad, figuring the access to beach in Korea would be limited, headed to Waikiki for a swim and some body-surfing. Waikiki's waves broke differently in those days, and you ( I guess ) could body-surf them. Mom had donned the latest in 1955 beach fashion, (meaning - huge shades, big hat, probably polka-dotted, but who knows) and went to sun herself on the Kuhio Beach area of Waikiki proper.

Dad, being a hellofa stud, musta seen Mom and being the suave ( broke ) guy that he is, somehow conned my Mom into 'keeping and eye' on his shorts (old) and wallet (empty, and watch (not-working) while he went swimming.

Mom, being totally 1955 cool, said...'Eh' (artistic liberty taken; she was probably really nice about it)

Apparently after a surf and swim, Dad (stud) came back and began conversing with Mom. I have no idea what the pick up lines were, or how well they worked, but,.... Thanks.

In Honolulu, the rains will come down from the valley, and drench really quickly, or for a good spell. Liquid sunshine; if you wait a minute the weather will change.

So a squall of Ua (rain) came and had the two of them head for the protection of above Banyan Tree. It was much larger then, as it had to be trimmed to keep it alive about 10 years ago. They talked.

The rain came. They talked somemore. They told each other what was what (he going to Korea, she back to Chicago)

They exchanged address'.

They promised to write.

For 2 years they wrote.

When my Dad was getting discharged, he wrote my Mom, and asked her to marry him.

After meeting him that day, under that tree, she said yes.

I like that tree.

Aloha.

* I pass it everytime I work at the Royal; and every time I like to think i say thanks.

2.4.08

Just another day...

Maile and old fut man went surfing....but first...

Gotta feed the kids and animals

Kids...





Animals...






Kids..



Dental Check.....



Follow a Sk8er Mom to the beach....




You'll need Coffee and SexWax...



You Gotta find parking...




And wait for waves...



And paddle in when you are done...



And then you stop by the banayan tree where over 50 years ago two people met, and if it didnt rain, and the tree wasnt there to protect them....


You wouldn't exsist.





Good days are priceless.