Papa has marbles?

So I planned on taking pix of the whole day journey today; Maile thought (and said so out loud to my Daughter - in - law) "that Dad has lost his marbles"....

To which Kaleo dead panned in all serious voice -

"Papa has Marbles?"

Yes. And they are lost.

Todays events in no particular order - - - - -

It wont begin with me thats for sure.
Pink Hell.
Japanese tourist wedding in 90% humdity and 89 degree heat....Mmmmmm.
Japanese tourist in standard strange Japanese tourist T-Shirts.
Kiana's Grill
Shop lifter.
Mai going to skool
Ham on skool pic day. Jesus help me.
Ham and bro just leaving for skool.

My life revolves around a conspiracy tomake me lose my marbles.



Better than sex.

There is very little for me to say on surfing that hasnt been said by others before me.

There, out in the water, is like being born. Cliche? Yeah. True? Probably. That whole expanse of water waiting to drill you into the abyss of blue and darkness that when controlled, is nothing but bright and light.

Imagine the most nervous first kiss you ever attempted. How those nerves piled up from the depths of your desire and want; how tingley shmingley that felt. Maybe you felt in tune with the whole universe once. Maybe the most mind blowing orgasm.

Like walking into the public naked in a dream, your mind and feelings exploding in dread and fear, yet in awe of the situation you have yourself in.

I always say a prayer and make the sign of the cross (good catholic boy ya know) on entering the realm she presents.

Prayers before sex.

Pleasure of another is all that matters; you dedicate your folding body to the needs of another; wanting only to give ofyoursel to anothers enjoyment.

Water washes the shit away; no detergent no bleach can takeout the filth of now-a-days strife and hatred. In the water, everyone gets their turn. Your bank accounts are irrelevant.

You are possesed by another, onewho will have their way with you.

And you'll like it.

And return or more.




4hour surf before work at ThePink. Tired, bunt.

Grandkids were a "CHALLENGE" to- day.



Afternoon at the Duke Kahanmoku Lagoon - near the Hilton hotel.


Museum Of The Heart

I'm just gonna tuck these days in a folder in the back of my skull and let my heart remember it.

I am so tired.
My head is in a vise; I can hardly understand much less believe the stress and pressure that is bearing down on my being.
I guess a surf helps.
I imagine it must.
Imagination may be what I gots going now.



Guys at the beach sequel

Took the guys to the beach this morning before lunch -

Now at work -

Day 19 in a row.



Walked the guys 5 miles yesterday. Surfed 4 hours today. Sun is ratched up to 12. Scorching hot.

I smell of surf wax and sand.

Off to day whatever in a row of work.



My hands on a miracle

Made-up stories of Kings and Queens; and places of wonder.

Lying in the garage; pointing out the bugs.

Fist bumps.

Dancing to the music on the TV; acting the fool.