Real good surf this morning. Had CW's pretty much to myself and 5 others. Lotsa waves and good surfing by yours truly. One eat it, and paid the price with a stiff neck and bruised thigh from landing on the board. Oh well. Price you pay for playing. Waves running about 3-4 ft hawaiian style. 6-8 FFV (full face value) Absolutely beautiful conditions. Dawn was spectacular, and the sun rose just over the hill that is Koko Head. Crytsal clear blue water. A large Hawaiian monk seal came to play in the break too. Couple green turtles, lotsa birds, and fish. No "men in the grey suits"- (sharks)... Coffee at 530, and water by 615. stayed out 31/2 hours. Sore arms, back, and shoulders. It is supposed to get bigger and better by this coming week, so hope to get alot of surf time in before going back to the firehouse on Tuesday. One drowining over the past days at Diamond Head. 42 y/o , no details from the crew on what happened. Surf isnt macking, so who knows what happened? Now that surfing is going off the richter with the clueless, moronic, wanna-be's, only more tradgedy awaits those who cannot handle.
Bottom line in surfing is, if you cant handle the worst possible thing that can happen to you out there, you better not be out there. Cause you only endanger yourself, and others. Too many out now rely on the leash, and have no water ability to survive if the shit hits the fan. Sad, yeah, but stupid, also.
In other news, bought a new fridge for the remodel of up stairs, to be delivered Wed. Now back to work at the hell hole called the Hotel.
Peace and good surfing to all.
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