19.4.08

Sometimes you gotta get wetter than wet

Went out at dawn; after some coffee and a kiss on the maltese cross. Not as good/big/consistent as yesterday, but a wave fest for me. Been only surfing for and hour to and hour-half at most, and today stayed out 3 hours. Not the brightest idea, as (duh) the ribs arent fully healed and they reminded me. Its all good, just a small reminder I guess.


This is where you scramble back up when done surfing. Its a bitch when the sets come and push your tired ass against the ledge.
Under these 2 trees is a nice spot to watch the surf.
From the channel/shoulder.
The city's warning to would be doofus'. Doesnt work, BTW.
Dawn and ghost board.
A peeler on the inside after the crowd showed up.
Morning has broken.





Aloha.

5 comments:

Jennifer said...

It's probably good to remind your ribs why you need them. A little nudge should promote healing.

Keyword: little.

You just can't help yourself, can you? :-D

Unknown said...

i feel sorry for people who don't have the ocean nearby. sometimes it's the only thing that keeps me going, and i can't imagine not having it in my day to day life.

be careful out there, wild man!

Phillip Gerrish said...

Makes me want to go surfin. Unfortunatly the waves off of the coast of Maine just don't hav the same peel.

fineartist said...

Like the first morning, blackbird has spoken....I miss Joseph Islam, when he was Cat...

Kick axe pics!

alan said...

I can't think of anyone who deserves paradise more than you!

Still, go easy for a bit? Please?

alan