There is very little for me to say on surfing that hasnt been said by others before me.
There, out in the water, is like being born. Cliche? Yeah. True? Probably. That whole expanse of water waiting to drill you into the abyss of blue and darkness that when controlled, is nothing but bright and light.
Imagine the most nervous first kiss you ever attempted. How those nerves piled up from the depths of your desire and want; how tingley shmingley that felt. Maybe you felt in tune with the whole universe once. Maybe the most mind blowing orgasm.
Like walking into the public naked in a dream, your mind and feelings exploding in dread and fear, yet in awe of the situation you have yourself in.
I always say a prayer and make the sign of the cross (good catholic boy ya know) on entering the realm she presents.
Prayers before sex.
Pleasure of another is all that matters; you dedicate your folding body to the needs of another; wanting only to give ofyoursel to anothers enjoyment.
Water washes the shit away; no detergent no bleach can takeout the filth of now-a-days strife and hatred. In the water, everyone gets their turn. Your bank accounts are irrelevant.
You are possesed by another, onewho will have their way with you.
And you'll like it.
And return or more.
Aloha.
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