Droppings

LGREANZ Photo.



If there is ever a reason for a new baptisim in life, surfings the reason. The wasted time of checking non-exsistent swells, the drives to non-producing shores. Insurmountable odds weighed against my psychi of guilt-vs-pleasure-vs-responsiblities.

A long time ago, a scared keiki was tossed about in the ocean by ohana. Being bleesed in a church of stone has its benefits, but bleesed in the open sky has others. There were posters on the wall in grade school of sea-creatures that roamed the keiki's wildest nightmares. So feared, that even being next to said posters would cause a cringe. Getting stung at Makapu'u beach didnt help; guessing that small blue orbs wanted to play wasnt the brightest move for a already dim-witted soul. Being portugese, being salty; made no diff to the Man-O-War. 8MM films of a squealing little kane, now lost forever, are fresh still in the ancients mind. It is amazing how fast little feets can fly when scarred.

With age comes new dimensions of freedom; some can never be harnassed to the degree of control as they should be. As many a soul has lost its way in that said freedom. Luck would have otherwise, as freedom granted access to things desired. Oh and desire can freak you out. You can want something so badly that you are blinded in your lust. Then lust becomes a demon. You gotta have demons tho' 'cause good needs a battle now and then.

***blogger deletes notwithstanding*** we'll continue...sheesh.

Better living thru better times, nothing like filling into your manhood by pressing the luck. Pressing it with a good friend, going on dawn patrols on 5 speed schwinns in the early dawn. Peddaling miles to the beach. Watch crappy ass 8MM fils from Seans brother of the far away North Shore. Getting wave service when out in the water, feeling like we owned the world, and nothing at the same time...

When sayings and times collide "can you handle the worst possible thing that can happen to you out there?" can? Then lets go. Eating absolute shit and living to tell. Realistically thinking as a wave approaches and you are out of position, that - "fuck, I am going to get obliterated" or worse...die. Realx. You are water. Go with it and never, ever panic. Air. Airs good. Especially when you are out of it.

I cant explain it.

The giving of that internal combustion of stoke to the next player.

The next generation.

No smile can out do the one after that gift has been passed.

Stoke in life amplified past the 10.

Turn the volume up, please.

Aloha.