Surfing. Maybe lose/lost a few readers, sorry.
I'll kwitmybitching now and focus on more positive outlooks.
The days session turned out pretty good. Trades are back, and the breezes combed the faces of the waves pretty good. A bit stiff at times, and a tad inconsistent in the swell. Meaning - not a lot of waves coming in often. No complaints here, tho'. Just stoked to be wet.
Not much of a crowd, and no bad attitudes so thats a plus. Caught a buncha waves and set down some solid lines and carves with the Makani 9'0" Couple of pretty good drops and carves, not to mention a little tuck into the barrel on a good sized one.
Nalu was out. He is a Firefighter friend/brother. Excellent waterman. Capatalize excellent. Good to see him, and talk story. His dad was a rescue captain for years, and another superb waterman. He used to go with Nalu and paddle in the morning on Kayaks before going on duty at 0800. One day while he was with Nalu, he had a massive heartattack while paddling. Imagine being with your father; enjoying nature, and wham!, just like that he is gone. CPR on a kayak is next to impossible. Nalu is a good soul.
Need to work on the photog skills. Dont really have a knack for this cam, (like I have any knacks at all)
Aloha!
3 comments:
dude, it's cool.
your blog is always no ka oi, no matter if it's about surfing or just your world.
definitely lovin' that new camera, though! :) gorgeous.
No knacks at all...quit lying to yourself!
A beautiful family living in a beautiful place and here you gather people from all over the world!
I love the photos and learning the things I do here, be it about surfing or life!
Here for life!
An aside...were I to go with my foot on the trolling motor and a rod in my hand, what more could I ask?
alan
Annie and Alan both got it right amigo. We're here for whatever you got. I'ma gonna have to go home and translate the bit that Annie said, but I got a good idea what it means already.
Aloha crazy man.
~lk
ps We'll see about Vegas Oct/Nov.
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