Used to be in the days looooong past that a days worth was measured by time spent surfing. Or at least getting to the beach. Grommet hood meant getting tot he beach, staying at the beach, and surviving at said beach. It seemed that a year was spent being in school, participating in some kind of organized sport (Football) and trying to expel the demons of want for the ocean; except those demons never did leave.
It's OK!Sure those demons got side-tracked at times - "Hey! its a good idea to go to college 15 zillion miles away from the nearest ocean!" Not. Because you would spend way too much time delving into surf magazine contraband sent from the home of surf. Or experience the sting of trying to skateboard your way to a aquatic nirvana that was a false god no matter how hard you tried. But just like the truism that equates - Work alot; and it makes that surf time all the more VALUABLE and no mathematical formula is truer(?) than that. If you only had time to surf all day and all the time, what real value would you place on it? Probably little more than a shoulder shurg.
Guess that makes me the bankholder of a great amount of time checks to cash.
Its OK.
Loving to work doesnt make me horny to work. Lets get that straight. Matter of fact, far as I am concerned, it is fucking salt peter for the stoke. Needed, but damn, it gets in the way of what shapes my life. It is with great satisfaction that I will attend to the duties of being in the Fire department, its with (OK, so-so) ambivalance that I care about the pink and its swath of tourists, good and bad.
In the end, at the call of the day, I am still just a surfer.
Aloha.
5 comments:
That is one fine boy!
I have never read it put quite like that, the difference between loving to work and, heh, the other. You cracked me up, and made me take a second look to make sure I had read you right. Heh, heh.
Lovin’ a vacation here, and yeah, all the sweeter because vacation comes after ten months of lovin to work.
I can't believe how fast KJ is growing! I should believe it, but I can't believe how fast GBabyZ is growing, either.
You'll have to tell us, some day when you have the time & feel like reminiscing, your first memory of the water, then your first memory of surfing, and how that all left its permanent mark on your soul.
Moose said he'd go back to college if he could go in Hawaii. I said: HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAA! The kid can hardly focus HERE, let alone in paradise!
such an awesome grandson you have!
keep surfin'.
Ah, but you are so much more than so many who prey upon this earth!
That photo is so absolutely perfect!
alan
You're Faulkner on a board.
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