Joy of joys, I got a surf in. The much hyped southy didnt really show its merit yet. Too high a tide for the forerunners to feel the bottom, and give up the goods.
But the packages that got to be opened before the tide killed it where worth while, for sure. Ended up in the water for about 3 hours, nicely pruned, and posted the photos with water dripping out the snozzola.
Drove by 3 favorite spots before finally settling on an obscure spot, by the name of Rice Bowls. Named because the wave warps and curves like a bowl, hence the name. The wave itself is pretty good, and the lack of crowd made it all the more worthwhile.
Northshore had its first real swell of the winter season set foot on the shores today - solid 6 feet hawaiian style (10ft + faces) Had planned on going to the country, but after slopping $50 buckolas of petrol in the truck, couldnt see the expense, being I had to work at the hotel anyways. I know it isnt long by mainland standards, but a 90 mile round trip wasnt on the menu. Altho' after seeing the pix from my friends website, maybe it woulda been.
There is always another day.
The waves were pretty well manicured this morning. Winds started off fairly light, and Diamond Head blocked most of the wind that was blaring down the valleys. So out into the ocean blue - I find it more and more healing as I age along with the soil. ( now thats is a weird one) I always do the same actions before I go in the water. Make the sign of the cross, ask whoever to keep me safe, and let me see the eyes of my Lady C, K, Bear, and da Maimai. Habit. Kinda like dipping in the holy water, so to speak. Tom Blake once said that the ocean is his religion, and that his church is "the blessed church of the open sky" I really like that quote. Getting that first taste of salt water is invigorating in itself.
I swear, it is like it just washes all the bullshit off of me. Maybe it is just because of the simplicity of the entire surf-dance. It is a board, shorts, and me. Pretty refined, I guess. I dont think I can put into words what that first moment is like. Maybe it is like a orgasm. Or maybe like pulling out a thorn, you know how the release, or relief?...(wink, wink)
OK, sexual innuendos aside, it feels pretty damn good.
Refreshed.
Thats the ticket. The best part is it stays with me the whole day. I kinda skitter along, all stoked about the waves, getting some excercise. Maybe a burnt nose to boot. Happy, happy, joy, joy.
I gotta bottle that, and stash it for the long, hard days.
I am a lucky man, truly blessed.
Stoked!
Aloha.
No comments:
Post a Comment