14.9.05

Surfed Out

Yes I had a day off.

My arms are toast. I gotta work a 24 tomorrow.

So what.

I am stoked.

I had a 3 hour surf fest, not where I wanted because everyone and their mom were on it. So I relegated myself to a spot known as Pillars, and paddled to another spot known as Siltys - like the silt. In between, paddled around to another spot by the name of Terrors, and wondered around the Moanalua Bay like a dog in heat.

Caught a ton of waves. Nothing earth shattering, but enuf to make me smile.

I must have paddled a couple of miles. 'Cause I got knots where knots never have been.

Nose salt water drainage.

I am a happy pup.

A L O H A ...

1 comment:

Jennifer said...

Now you gotta soak in a hot epsom salts bath, and double your daily H2O intake. Kno more knots!

Good for you -- the demanding touristas at Hotel de Hell will be complaining that the mint left on their pillow was just a tad stale, and the A/C is just a bit too noisy, and the TV won't tune into their favorite veg-out even though I'm in paradise station, but even your eyes will be smiling now that you've properly prepared your soul.

Good on ya!