Thanks to the asshole(s) that decided it would be fun to burn 50 acres on the East Side. now that the meth-heads have burnt up all the brush on the West Side, -----"go east young moron, go east" 12 hours after the start, cool bed, and moi-moi (sleep) time. No one hurt, main thing.
Pix whenever I get around to it.
Surfed dawn patrol at China Walls, 3 to 5 ft hawaiian scale, offshores, stiff 10 to 15 MPH. Calmness once in awhile, mostly fun, rippable lefts. Had some good waves. Surfed surprisingly well after working to friggin hard w/ Lady C at the house. (Oh, the trials and tribulations of interpersonal realtionships) Ships that often pass in the night, but ships whose captains are not on the same damn frequency of late.
Spectacular morning in the water. Dawn creeped in over Koko Head, light up the sky all pinks and blues. Clouds scattered about. Glanced by 2 sting rays, a turtle, and seabird. Wonders of mother ocean. Caught a pair of lined up screamers - all the way to the inside. Long paddle back out to the line up, but worth it, able to nab a couple inside gems that were hollow enuf to give a nice refracted look of the morning from inside the womb.
Aloha.
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