Simple.

It does not get much more basic than this: Surfshorts, Wax, Towel, Board.

If it gets really complicated, add a jug of water to hose off if there is no water to access after-surf.

Thats it. You can walk to the ocean from anywhere. 10 minutes from my home. I see it from my lanai on the 2nd story.

Simple. And thats me. Having no delusions of granduer, I focus on the main thing - Staying sane. There are times when what goes down around myself, that plan takes some serious review. Mostly, I come up Ace's. ( Or Yo-Eleven on the craps table)...So i stay as palapable as possible, turning thoughts and feelings inward, outward, waterwards. Work is a time consuming necessity, that, for the firehouse, is a privledge. I mean that. Serving people in need at the moment when they are at the worst, is pretty friggin' great. It is intersting as well. Running into a burning building sure has it negatives, but it is a high. No shit. Its stoney killer Buds. Without the drug test. Tending injured people, another high. Not as much of a rush, but pretty damn cool to get paid for it.
As well as the cost of paradise, working 2 jobs kills ya. In the past year so far, I have had probably 8 full days off. I know, I know - I dont want any cheese to go with my "whine" -

It fulfills the saying to me that "work is love made visible"

So I be fulla hella love, baby.

Love. That is a killer. Addicting, consuming, burning, ravishing. Inflated, overated, delicate. Precious, expendable. Usable.

People kill for it, because of it. Work like a dog for it.

Tenderness of touch, the face of a wave as I glide down, just brushing the glistening water. Holding on to a newborn, who just came into the world in the backseat of a Honda. Childs hand, cut, bleeding, shaking, calming with words, and mending with...love. Seeing the dawn blues, greens, yellows break out. Looking seaward, smelling the fresh ocean breeze, cooling rains draping across my face. Wholly grabbing the wrist of a girl prepped to jump from a building, taking the first steps back to life, away from the abyss of depression, holding, really truly holding, and feeling so much empathy and care. Then having it come back to you in the middle of the night. Doing something right.

Damning yourself, 2 weeks later, when she completed the task.

Love. All things generate from it.

It has been an exahusting few days.

Aloha.