It is always something

Two days in-a-row surf-a-rama! Goodness. Tired but salt water sinus cures all ills.



Fly In The Soup


Sinfest always makes me laugh/think.

Even in perfection is flaw. There were parts of this mornings foray into liquid high that were awesome. Cool blue pacific, huge arse rainbow over Diamond Head Crater. Turtle raising an aged head to peek at the invaders of his breakfast buffet. Bunch of silver bodied fish swimming in a school, that flashed a reflection so bright that it seared my eye. (ya know like looking at the sun kine)

Rain squalls and weirded out tides complicated the line-up, but passed. It was like Mom nature was testing to see if I wanted it bad enough. Suffer; surfer. Winds blew cold, chopped up the sea, and the sun hid. Then it would pass, share some delights, and do the cycle all over.

Had one other guy out at 730AM. He had been out since 6AM. We shared small kine talk, but for the most part, I just soaked in the solitude and meditation that I luckily gained. We shouted hoots to each others good waves. And passed the lulls paddling around to fetch a spot for a hopefully coming good one. Waited out the lulls, and got a bunch of satisfying waves. Tomorrow should be as good, or better. Gotta check how the winds will be AM, vs the PM hours. Feel like calling in at her pinkness, and surf for the day, get burnt, saltwater filled and satiated.

Everytime I do that tho' some nuclear reaction seem to take place at home, so I will do with a AM go, and a PM work. So be it. Always more to come.

Good day, sunshine, burnt nose, red eyes, and sore muscles.

Cant ask for anything more.

Perfection....with a side of mischief for good luck.

Aloha!