Tried it once, try again. Surfed FP this AM with perfect conditions and small crowd. OH waves and good weather. Beautiful dawn. Reds, Golds and not a cloud in the sky. At the "Pink Palace" hotel job now. Saw 4 drunk ass military guys on the way to work. 430 in the afternoon and polluted. They could hardly walk. Hope they are not driving. I guess the military life does that to you. Real good surf coming on the horizon. Wed looks to be big on the south shore and country (north shore) still has waves at the start of summer. Great. Keep the crowds down. Not that I mind crowds. Because in general, I can only get surf in the early AM most of the time. Plus try to surf wherever none else will be which means hunting and looking and staying outta the regular spots.
There are tons of spots that are less crowded than most of the spots on the island. FP today for example. I bet Town spots are jammed. Just looking out in front of the hotel now, Waikiki, Canoes, Populars, 3's all are packed. I bet Kaisers, Bowls and the Ala Moana park in general are a zoo. Fuck that. That aint surfing, that is exsisting in the water with others.
Anyhow, original post was much more innaressing (ala Neil Young bio) than this shortie.
Peace, stay wet hope all is well for whover drops in.
Aloha.
No comments:
Post a Comment