A Brief History Of The World. (seen from a surfers demented POV)

Surfboards are constructed in various shapes and sizes for differing conditions. Differing levels of talent, as well. Throw in the height/weight options, you can do pretty much anything with a foam blank, glass it, and ride it.

Probably the closest thing to it would be the varying types of skiing equipment, sizes, and the variables there.

--But back to joy.

Surfboards have come a long way since ancient times, when boards were harvested from Koa trees, or the wiliwili tree. Huge, heavy planks were shaped into boards. The Alii (royalty, kings) had certain types of boards made for them. They also had areas reserved for them. Surf there, die. Harsh, yeah, but when you are King, you make the rules. They would have been shaped by hand, carved with adzes, and various tools made from stone. The basic shape would be recognizable in the sticks in the photo. Same general outline. The technical stuff, is pretty basic, you have to gain momentum, stay afloat, and be able to keep ahead of the wave. Turning, while not required, makes it hella lot more fun. Ancients would have been happy not taking one on the head. No skegs (fins) on the early boards, turning was achieved by using the foot as a rudder. The skegs actually came into the mix in the 1930's.

The curve you see in the boards is called 'rocker'. The rocker influences the paddling ability of the board (quicker, or slower) The ability to make the drop down the face of the wave (easier, or more difficult). Variables thrown onto that mix are surf heights and conditions, winds, tides, experience, just about everything but the kitchen sink. Options on rocker can be more forward, more rear, less curve, more curve.

I hope the fact that each board is made in an of itself, shows how much talent on the part of the shaper is needed. They really are one-of-a-kind works of Art.

Lengths vary by personal taste. This too is influenced by the surfers height, weight, and ability. In general, the longer the board, the easier the board paddles. The more volume the board has, makes it easier to manage as well. Shorter boards, while lighter and more responsive, tend to be less durable, as less glass, less volume take importance.

- - Kinda like short skis turn easier?

Tail styles can vary as well, the wider veing more bulky and harder to move in a short arc, where "V" or swallow shapes give you different pivot points. Pointed noses of boards "cut" into the face of a steeper wave easier, combine that with light weight, creates a sports car of the water deal. Wider, broader noses do the same, but on a flat faced wave, allow you to "hang ten" - or dangle 10 toes over the nose, while keeping the tail firmly imbedded in the wave itself.

Modern longer boards combine the 'old school' ease of paddling, but allow 'new school' agressive moves. The are long, yet light in weight. They have more volume, but not the weight gain. This is a double edged sword, because in soft mellow surf, you can really take over the line-up. It allows you if you are greedy, to be in on a lot of waves.

But when it is macking, you better be in the right place at the right time, because that extra length and volume will come around to bite you in the ass. The amounts of water that flow in a wave are pretty amazing, and being in control, well, mom nature letting you THINK you are in control of all that water, is the stoke factor.

People collect old sticks, and pay big bucks for pristine condition boards. I'll re-post the pix from the surfboard auction for more insight.


Todays surf session was good. 3 hours of choice conditions, at Full Point. No crowd, 4 out max. Had a buncha good waves, both lefts and rights. Couple a killer rights. Came home and watched the kids from Ewa Beach, Hawaii win the Little Leauge world series.

12 y/o old boys, making an entire island proud, and go nuts. Pretty cool.

Aloha.