24.2.06

Surf & High Times

Totally Friggin Cool & Righteous

MMMMMMMMmmmmm Good ^

Why I Do Not Golf

Surf to continue over the weekend. So tomorrow I'll be getting up at the crack of dawn, to wash off the effects of actually going to work at The Hotel. Eh.

Will probably go to one of my favorite spots in the world, China Walls. It is about a 5 minute drive from the house. Not hitting the red light, I'll be wet within 15 minutes of waking. There is no better way to start the day. One of the reasons I dig the spot so much is it is nestled between 5 and 10 million dollar homes. And the folks there dont like surfers. So poo. But since laws state that you must allow beach access, I gets to surf!

The spot breaks about 100 yards off a cliff, the cliff jump off being the access to the water. Approximately 150 yds out, there are a series of large coral heads, lined up at an angle heading in towards Manualua Bay. When the waves come, they first will show at the spot Point proper, or "Portlock Point" Almost as sure as the sun shines, the sets will arrive at Chinas within the next few minutes. It is a left hand break, which means I face the wave, and it is a long left. The wave can stand up a break for well over a hundred yards or more. So stoked when the right wave sets up for you. When paddling back out, you tend to have 50 yard line seats for anyone else catching the best waves, and hooting and hollering for them elevates the stoke-meter in my opinion.

So 'morrow is a good day.

I was doing the polish the tile thingy today again, after a morning surf.

But the weather has changed to no breeze, and humid. So i am doing the tile polish thingy. With chemicals. In the bathroom. And there is no breeze.

About 2 hours into the mess, I realize.....

I am

H I G H

Stoned, buzzed, light headed, couple quarts over full, what have you.

Note to self -

Use a fan.

But hell, I made it to work, and i didnt get the munchies, just a headache that i can deal with. What was hilarious was me standing there, wondering for a while.

Hmmmm?

What?

Hmmmmmmmm?

Whoa.

Shit.

I am high.

Fresh air relivened up the brain cells.

Just another weirded out day for me.

Aloha.

2 comments:

Sandy said...

ROFL. stoner

Angeline Rose Larimer said...

I gotta link the balls sign.