Surfgasam

Up at dawn, before the rest of the house even stirred. Birds were still in bed. Went an got a coffee. Sun cracks at the night, and I crack off the junk from my eyes. So went the first moments of this day.
Hit the parking spot, unload board, wax, and my ass. Had my shorts on to sleep in. (1 less thing to do in the AM) Air temp about 68. Water 70 or so. Wind breezing from the north at 5 to 10 MPH. Pretty cool in the water, actually. Sun painting the sky in hues of pinks, grays, blues mixing out the darkness. Stars still visible at first.
Stretch, dip my hand in the water, make the sign of the cross, ask he/she/whomorwhatever/ to : "keep me safe, let me see the eyes of my Kaimi, Koni, Maimai, and my dear wife Cathy"

I do that every time I enter the water.

Why?

All protection helps, no worries after that.

Just Outside the jump off point

Photo courtesy KSBE

Maunalua Bay

China Walls is to the left of this pix. Courtesy Hawaii Hikers (pix)

This guys friend came by cruising


So I hit a lineup of 3 in the water already, with waves showing proceed to surf for 3 hours. Surfed decently enough for a 47 y/o grommet (kid surfer). Happy drops, waves, and cutbacks, turns, carves. Lotta stoke in the water. Mellow people in the crowd, that never numbered more than 8.

Mr. Hawaiian Monk Seal popped by for a visit, 'bout 1 foot from my board and I. He split, only to comeback later with his breakfast of Pufferfish.

Coolest thing in a long time. Big ol' eyes, and just ..cruising. He inspected all of us, I guess we dont rate as mate material. Turtle on the inside, maybe a total of 6. Babies and adolecents.

Hotel now, and firecom for a 24 'morrow.

Lucky man, lucky man.

Aloha.