Her Humble Servant

Today I got to go surfing.

Not a life changing statement, but a truism if not fact.

Ocean

Got to enjoy 3 hours of bliss, uninterrupted by any of the slayings of todays world.
3 hours unmolested by phones, by bills, by demands, needs, or wants.
Those things got to be put on the back burner for a short period of ticks of the life clock.

Surf

I was lucky enough to be all by my lone-ass self for 2+ hours. Not a soul. 2 others at the break over from me, but no one at my spot.

When I first pulled up, not but 1 car was parked in the area. Made my way down to the jump-in point, and a single older guy on a boogie-board was exiting the ocean.

"I took all the good ones" -he joked.

"Thats OK by me, I wll be content with scrap hunting" - I replied.

"Where is everyone, anyway?" - he responded.

"Not here; and that brings no argument from me"...

I quenched the burning need to liquify my soul at 0755AM on a hazy Hawaiian morning.

Tide

There are times that in my un-sanely life that I truly question my immediate sanity.

As confused and static that is as a comment, it rings true when you work 345 outta 365 days a year.

Working 365+ woulda been worth today; maybe not perfect; but perfectly fine.


H20

When my seance like intrusion was finally broken by a duo of fellow wave hunters, they were nice as a cool breeze on a blistering afternoon.

After spending 2+ hours bascially talking to myself, (not arguing w/ myself, cause that is just ill) it was welcome to have someone to shout - out to in encouragenment.


Heaven

In general, I dislike graffiti, but at least this one shows some brain work.


My arms are spent, as I had noone to share waves to or with.

I have salt water in orfices that my Doctor is the only one who has seen.

Stoked.


Goodness

Now I am penned up at the waiting-to-get-a-contract-so-we-dont-strike pinkness.


Comes

KJ and company are at the 'sunset on the beach' film right by here, on Kuhio Beach, next to Waikiki.

Around

Its not perfect, but life is perfectly fine.


At Times

The demands dont get marginalized, they just dont exsist, just dont push their way to the fore-front.

They give me a break, as if holding up some kind of pre-historic alm, offering me a respit from it all.

Truly I am blessed, I am watched over.

'Cause...

Today I got To Surf

Aloha.