"If all the if's, ands, and buts were candies and nuts, we all would have a Merry Christmas" - Andreas Martinez, from the book 24/7
Surfed at a spot that hasnt seen me in awhile. Went off the richter scale, being very aggressive in the water. Not bad-kine aggressive, good kine, in a surfers way. No crowd. Empty. Only me. Not bragging, but I surfed very, very well. Of course, no one else out, I had the pick of the litter.
Tired, burnt-ola body. At Pinky's Palace for the Friday Night Buffet/Trough feeding. Busy , busy.
Have a terrific weekend, world.
Aloha.
3 comments:
have a great weekend yourself!
hope you're in the ocean again soon-like.
Lucky you. My encounter with this swell was not such a good one. But tomorrow is another day!!
Glad you had a lot of fun!
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